Hawthorn Berry Jam

Why people make this jam

Hawthorn (shan zha) is one of those ingredients that appears in both the kitchen and the traditional Chinese pharmacy — and for good reason. The berries have a bright, pleasantly tart flavour that makes a delicious jam, and they carry a long history in Chinese food therapy as a digestive aid, particularly after eating a heavy or meaty meal. Fresh hawthorn berries are available seasonally at Chinese or Asian grocers, or online; dried hawthorn slices are available year-round at Chinese herb shops. This jam is wonderfully practical: a couple of teaspoons dissolved in warm water works as a gentle post-meal digestive tonic; a tablespoon in warm water is traditionally used to ease the lower abdominal bloating and cramping that can accompany a woman’s menstrual cycle.

Method

1. Wash the fresh hawthorn berries thoroughly and slice off the tops and tails. Cut them into halves or rough slices, removing any seeds.
2. Place the prepared hawthorn into a pot with 1.2 L of water. Simmer over medium-low heat for 1 hour, until the fruit is very soft and the liquid has reduced to about 600 ml. Strain the liquid out through a fine sieve; set aside.
3. Return the cooked pulp to the pot, add 2 more bowls of water, and simmer for another 30 minutes until the liquid reduces to about 300 ml. Strain again and combine both batches of liquid.
4. Add the brown sugar to the combined hawthorn liquid. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the mixture thickens to a jam-like consistency. Be patient and keep the heat gentle — medium-high heat causes it to thicken too fast and may scorch.
5. Allow to cool before transferring to a clean glass jar. Store in the refrigerator.

How to use the jam

• As a digestive aid after meals: dissolve 2 teaspoons in a cup of warm water and drink.
• For menstrual support: dissolve 1 tablespoon in a cup of warm water and drink around the time of discomfort.
• As a spread or condiment with bread, oatmeal, or plain rice congee.

Nourilo’s Tips

Keep the heat low when concentrating the jam — Nourilo admits he was a little impatient the first time and used medium heat, which made the jam too thick too quickly. Low and slow gives a much better result. A good hawthorn jam should be glossy, spreadable, and pleasantly tart-sweet, not stiff or bitter. Store in the fridge and use within a few weeks.

For children with poor appetite and food stagnation, Nourilo also suggests simply brewing hawthorn slices with malt (mai ya) as a daily tea — use a tablespoon of each, steep in hot water, and sip throughout the day. This is gentler than the jam and very accessible for children who refuse medicine.