Hairy Gourd, Loach Fish and Lean Pork Soup

Why people make this soup

Loach — a small freshwater fish with a slippery, eel-like body — is something of a hidden gem in Cantonese food therapy. Outside of East Asian cooking, it is rarely seen in Western kitchens, but it has a long tradition as one of the most valued freshwater foods for liver support, fluid regulation, and childhood nutrition. Loach is famously resilient: it can survive freezing temperatures by going dormant, only to revive when thawed. Nourilo’s grandchildren found this remarkable when he demonstrated it at home — he froze some loach to show the “hibernation,” then used the rest to make this soup.

What makes loach special in food-therapy terms is its mild flavour, easy digestibility, and its traditional association with clearing dampness and toxins, supporting the liver and kidneys, and providing nutrition that the body can absorb efficiently — even for children with poor appetite or weak digestion. It is a nourishing soup that does not feel heavy, and the hairy gourd keeps it fresh and light.

Method

1. Place the live or fresh loach in a mesh soup bag (or fish bag), tie it tightly, and lower it into a large pot of vigorously boiling water for a brief moment — this removes the slime coating. Lift out, rinse well, then remove and clean the fish (discard the intestines).
2. Heat a little oil in a pan and pan-fry the loach until lightly golden and fragrant. This step is essential for flavour.
3. Peel the hairy gourd and cut into chunks. Blanch the pork slices briefly and rinse.
4. Place all ingredients into a pot with 2.4 L of water.
5. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 1.5 hours.
6. Serve. The whole family can drink this soup.

Nourilo’s Tips

Loach is one of those ingredients that rewards proper preparation. The slime layer is removed by the boiling-water step, and pan-frying the fish before adding it to the soup deepens the flavour considerably — do not skip this step. For liver hepatitis patients specifically, loach is considered one of the most beneficial foods available; it is traditionally thought to help the body bring down elevated transaminase (liver enzyme) levels. Children who eat this soup regularly may find their growth and appetite improve. For those who find it difficult to source fresh loach, some specialty Asian fishmongers carry it. If you find the soup is too mild and want a slightly richer taste, a dried tangerine peel (chen pi) can be added. Note: Nourilo was going to start new book photo-shooting the week after this recipe was posted and expected to be busier than usual.